Sunday, July 27, 2008
National Night Out Picnic
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Littering; A Real Problem in Lorain
Back By Popular Neglect
Some Interesting Facts About Litterers
Why people litter:
* People are too lazy to dispose of trash properly
* People are more likely to throw litter on top of litter than drop litter in neat surroundings
* Don't Care
* Others will pick it up
* Not aware they are littering
Smokers and littering:
(Environmental Protection Authority of New South Wales(EPA) Research 2000)
* Many smokers do not believe that littering their cigarette butts has an environmental impact or is inappropriate behavior.
* Many smokers blame their littering behavior on a lack of well-placed bins for cigarette butts.
* Over 80% of smokers said they would bin their butts if suitable bins were available (three key areas for more bins were alongside every ordinary litterbin, at entrances to large city buildings and at bus stops).
* Over half of smokers said they would change their behavior if they were more aware of the issues and their potential environmental impact.
Littered cigarette filters contain toxic chemicals that leak into the air and water.
Help a smoker who litters by sending him or her an anonymous email and free personal disposable ashtray from www.cigarettelitter.org
A poll conducted in 1998 of male and female Texans > 16 years old revealed the following predictors of littering in order of importance:
* Age: 16-24 (now people age 16-24 are the target in Texas and nationwide)
* Smokes
* Eats fast food at least 2 nights/week.
* Goes out for nighttime entertainment at least 1/week.
* Drives >50 miles/day.
* Never been married
Neither gender nor ethnicity were factors increasing likelihood of littering.
Five types of people with respect to litter:
* Non-litterers - environmentally conscious, don't litter and usually pick up litter of others
* Inconvenients - too hard, too much trouble, someone else's problem
* Ignorants - these people are simply unaware of a link between the environment and their litter behavior
* Willful Arrogants - usually litter in a context, i.e. "It's okay to litter in urban areas but not in the country"
* Anti-establishments - make a statement with purposeful littering
Caring enough to not litter seems to be driven by:
* Knowledge and awareness
* How much they care about the environment
* Positive self-image
* Attitudes to life (i.e. happy and content)
* Sense of community and an empathy with the needs of others
* Ease of disposal
* Context they are in (16-24 year olds tend to litter more while in groups, but those older litter less in groups and more when alone)
* Type of litter
* If they can get away with it (either in terms of being observed or fined)
Conclusions
* People who feel the highest personal obligation to not litter are also people who feel a strong sense of identity with their communities, frequent recreational areas, have self-esteem and place special value on a sense of accomplishment, warm relationships, and a sense of belonging.
* People who don't litter are not necessarily going to pick up other people's litter. While a good education seems to have a positive effect on individual littering and recycling habits, those with the highest levels of education are not as likely to pick up other people's litter.
* Younger people litter more, particularly when in groups.
* Littering tends to be less in areas where community recycling is available. The correlation between littering and recycling may be attributed to public education associated with recycling which in turn has increased awareness of litter and a need to properly dispose of it.
* The presence or absence of trash receptacles is not a major factor in littering.
* Education is seen as an essential component of any litter prevention partnership. Education is needed to motivate the participants, including people in the judicial system, law enforcement, county and municipal departments, private industry and the public.
Source: http://mdc.mo.gov/nomoretrash/facts/
• The several trillion toxic cigarette butts littered worldwide annually are responsible for fatal fires and the deaths of numerous mammals, birds and reptiles who eat them.
• Litter reduces property value, because it sends a message that people don’t take pride in their community.
• In Ohio it costs $90 million annually to throw away 2.6 million tons of cans, bottles and newspapers that are collected and moved to Ohio landfills. Those items would have an estimated market value of $300 million if they were recycled.
• According to the UN Environment Program, plastic debris causes the deaths of more than a million seabirds every year, as well as more than 100,000 marine mammals. Syringes, cigarette lighters and toothbrushes have been found inside the stomachs of dead seabirds, which mistake them for food.
• Finally, littering is symptomatic of apathy, the root of virtually all problems. So, by stigmatizing littering, you don’t merely mitigate the aforementioned problems.
I watch in horror as people throw litter out of their car windows as if our community is their personal garbage dump. Daily I walk my property and pick up cups, and food wrappers from Burger King and McDonalds, and beer bottles. I just don't get it. How our community looks is how we look. If our city looks like a litter pile our image is that of a litter pile. People will look me right in the eye and throw trash on my street as if it isn't a crime. What happened to taking pride in our neighborhood?
We are the keepers of our community. If we want a better quality of life we have to be ready for the next opportunity that may arise. If we want businesses to locate here or investors to want to be here to bring jobs and prosperity we have to take pride in our community. If all they see is slums and garbage piled up in our streets why would they invest in us when we don't even invest in ourselves.
"Luck is a matter of preparation meeting opportunity." -
-- Oprah Winfrey
Friday, July 11, 2008
Block Watch Meeting
Officer Kusznir will speak again and we'll be getting updates on National Night Out coming in August.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Important Update!
Yesterday two of our neighbors caught two youth starting garbage cans on fire. Our neighbors made the mistake of calling the police since the fire was small. This was the incorrect procedure to follow. Call the Fire department no matter how small a fire because they can and will investigate and get the police involved.
When the neighbors followed the kids home to 1915 19th Street, the fire restarted. Because the neighbor notified other neighbors, We were watching and saw smoke. I walked over to see why there was still so much smoke, and the fire had restarted and was burning the surrounding trees. We put the fire out again.
Now it's too late to do anything to the kids but please next time follow the proper procedure so we can stop these acts of arson from happening.
Friday, June 20, 2008
The Eyes & Ears
Last evening, Community Resource Officer David Kusznir spoke to our block watch about the importance of communication with the police department and watching out for each other. He said we are the eyes and ears for the police department.He gave examples, such as our familiarity with people and vehicles in our neighborhood as a reason why we can protect and maintain our own safety.
He also told us if we see chronic habitual crime, we can report it to him and he'll do his best to catch them, given a few important details. The two forms below are to help the police department help our neighborhood. He said, the police are trained to look for specific things, he said if we start looking for these same things we can get tough on crime in our neighborhood and make the criminal element feel unwelcome.
Suspicious Person Identification Sheet
Suspicious Vehicle Sheet
He also told us he's not on call 24/7 so when we see a situation that needs immediate attention dial 204-2100, or in extreme emergencies 911 or in non emergencies we can dial 311 from a land line.
He explained how calls are handled by the police department on a daily basis. He said they are prioritized. The more serious are handled first with the less dangerous after. He said, if a shooting is in one part of town and stolen bike in another the shooting will take precedents. He said this often accounts for varying response times.
He stressed the importance of staying involved and suggested we set goals and projects we want to accomplish like documenting and photographing vacant houses.
Our next meeting will be scheduled in a month and details will follow.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Block Watch Meeting Tonight @6:00 p.m.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
National Night Out
The "25th Annual National Night Out" (NNO), a unique crime/drug prevention event sponsored by the National Association of Town Watch (NATW), has been scheduled for Tuesday, August 5, 2008. We cordially invite you and your community to be a part of our NIGHT OUT 2008 team.
Last year's National Night Out campaign involved citizens, law enforcement agencies, civic groups, businesses, neighborhood organizations and local officials from over 10,000 communities from all 50 states, U.S. territories, Canadian cities and military bases worldwide. In all, over 34 million people participated in National Night Out 2007.
NATIONAL NIGHT OUT is designed to:
- Heighten crime and drug prevention awareness;
- Generate support for, and participation in, local anticrime programs;
- Strengthen neighborhood spirit and police-community partnerships; and
- Send a message to criminals letting them know that neighborhoods are organized and fighting back.
Along with the traditional display of outdoor lights and front porch vigils, cities, towns and neighborhoods 'celebrate' NNO with a variety of events and activities such as:
- block parties,
- cookouts,
- visits from local police and sheriff departments
- parades, exhibits,
- flashlight walks,
- contests, and
- youth programs.
NNO has proven to be an effective, inexpensive and enjoyable program to promote neighborhood spirit and police-community partnerships in our fight for a safer nation. Plus, the benefits your community will derive from NNO will most certainly extend well beyond the one night.
Once registered, coordinators receive an ORGANIZATIONAL KIT filled with 'how-to' materials such as:
- promotional ideas
- guidelines
- tips
- questions and answers
- camera-ready art
- sample news releases and proclamations
You will also receive NNO "Updates" during the period leading up to the event. Plus, you'll receive information on "Project 365" - a unique component to the National Night Out campaign.
Thank you in advance for your interest, support and early response.http://www.nationaltownwatch.org/nno/index.htmlBlock Watch Meeting Scheduled!
Monday, May 19, 2008
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Crimes Against Your Property
There are few things more violating than coming home and discovering you door has been kicked in and your personal belongings gone through. The sick, throat clenching terror when you look at the empty spot where your car was parked or the incredible anger and outrage to see a window smashed and items stolen from you. And that is exactly what it feels like to discover you have been the victim of a property crime.
Truth is property crimes make up an overwhelming majority of all crimes. Homes, garages, cars and businesses are all equally susceptible to the attentions of thieves. And mostly these crimes happen when you aren't there. Your absence is a critical component in planning for any security. It must stand alone against an all out siege.
Like everything else we believe in a "layered" approach to property crime prevention. We like to refer to this as "The Onion" if one layer doesn't stop the criminal, then the next one will and if not, then the next one. Unfortunately, most people's idea of security and property protection would be better likened to an egg. One hard layer and soft and gooey past that. And if you are willing to make a mess, it doesn't take much to get to the gooey part.
Locks only keep honest people out
The concept behind the old saying "Who is watching the watchers?" applies in spades to property crime.
"What is protecting the protection?"
Until this critical issue is addressed, then the statement that "locks only keep honest people" applies. That is because an honest person will look at a lock and see a barrier, a criminal will look and see something that he has to get around.
And unfortunately, most of what is around the locks/protections can be easily gotten through with ease. Which totally undermines the effectiveness of the lock.
Despite the fact that thieves may not use violence on people, that doesn't mean they are not deeply involved in the criminal mindset and therefore willing to use whatever force is necessary. And that means they don't care how much damage they cause getting what they want. It makes perfect sense to them to bypass a lock by kicking the door in. Thereby causing the frame to collapse or to smash a car window to get to something.
The havoc they will wreck will cost you hundreds of dollars to repair on top of whatever else they will have taken. Unfortunately, often the amount of money the burglar will get for the object he stole, is only fractional to the costs of repair for the damage he caused getting to the item.
It is critical that you have an understanding of how thieves operate and why an "onion" approach is necessary. Layers of protection, rather than just one level. Otherwise the burglar is going to quickly and easily bypass your security measures, or just blast through them.
There is no such thing as a burglar-proof home. What there is, however -- using a burglar’s double criteria of speedy entry and not attracting attention-- are homes that are too difficult to break in to .
The enemies of the burglar are time and attention. The longer it takes to enter and the more noise he makes increase his chances of being seen and caught. Homes not easily and quickly broken into are most often bypassed for easier targets
Although the main focus of this is to deter burglars, what is talked about on this page is an example of "walk-aways". The same issues that will deter a burglar will also serve to stop a break-in rapist or stalker.
Officer Ken Pence from the Nashville police force has created a "Rate Your Risk" quiz to assess your risk of being burglarized. We suggest you follow this offsite link and take the test.
Tip #1 Make your home security system like an onion, not an egg.
Layers upon layers are not only the best deterrent, but the best defense against break ins.
Reason: It is easy for a criminal to bypass a single line of defense. Multiple layers not only slow him, but serve as a means to alert you or your neighbors that someone is trying to break in. Doing these "layered walk-aways" makes it more difficult for a criminal to meet his criteria of quick and unobserved entry. If, like the tip of an iceberg, enough of these deterrents are visible, most of the time the would-be intruder will simply choose not to even try. If he does try, then the layers he did not see will impede him.
A good example of a layered defense is rosebushes outside the window, double-locked, barred and safety coated side windows and something difficult to climb over inside under the window.
Tip #2 Pretend to be a burglar
Walk around your property and ask yourself: How would I break in? Examine your house from the street, where are the blind spots? What are the most vulnerable areas and, therefore, likely to be attacked? Stand outside the windows and look in, make sure no valuables, like expensive electronics or artwork, are visible. If you can see your belongings doing this, so can criminals.
Reason: We don't tend to think of our homes in these terms. So spend just a few minutes doing this. Find where "blind spots" are (areas where a criminal can work without being seen or would be screened from view of a neighbor looking to see what that loud noise they just heard). Also look for "weaknesses" (easy access points) are (for example, sliding glass doors, doggy doors or louvered windows). These are the areas that will be "attacked" by the criminal. That is also where you must focus your defenses.
Tip #3 Consider the area that the lock sits in
A lock is not enough, you must also address the area around it. You need to extend your thinking about security measures to 18 and twenty four inches around the lock itself. That is the area you must protect.
Reason: A burglar doesn't care how much damage he causes getting in. The best locks in the world will do no good if he smashes the door in. A pinewood door frame will splinter and give way after a few savage kicks. The backdoor deadbolt can often be bypassed by just breaking a window and reaching through to unlock it. Windows can be broken and locks undone. Many locked gates can be opened by simply reaching around and over. A hasp-and-lock will swiftly yield to blows from a even a small sledgehammer.
Tip #4 As well as locking something, you must also protect the lock and its components
A common combination of cheap locks and small construction flaws, that we tend not to notice, often give criminals the "cracks" in security they need to break in.
Reason: Many home doorlocks can be quickly bypassed with a knife or screwdriver slid in the gap between door and frame. After that the criminal can easily work the tongue of most cheap locks out of the door frame. A thin kitchen knife slid between sash windows can "tap" a normal window lock open. Hasps and locks can be hammered or twisted off in a few blows, or simply cut off with bolt cutters. Many sliding windows and doors can simply be lifted out of place.
Door: Look at the gap between your door and your door frame from the inside - can you see the lock's tongue? All it takes is a flip of the criminal's wrist while holding a screwdriver while on the outside to break away the thin doorjamb molding and expose that same gap. From there, it is another simple wrist gesture to jimmy the tongue out of the faceplate. Total elapsed time for break-in, about 10 seconds -- with minimal noise.
On ALL outside exit doors, buy locks that have locking tongues. Test this by holding the door open and locking the knob. Then attempt to depress the tongue into the door with your finger. Better locks will have a secondary tongue that doesn't move. The best locks will have entire tongues that don't move.
Window: Put "window stops" on the first floor and basement window frames. These often functionally amount to secondary and tertiary locks. The best kind are those that go through a moveable frame and lock it into place. Something as simple as drilling a hole through both frames when the window is closed and placing a nail in the hole will lock the windows in place.
Other: Use hasps with protective shrouds. These make it harder for the criminal to hammer away the lock. If for some reason you have an outward swinging door, not only get the best lock possible, but place a safety plate (a small formed sheet of metal) over the tongue so it cannot be seen or easily manipulated
These slow down the criminal and make him work hard to get in. This entails him making more noise for longer periods of time, thereby increasing his chances of being detected.
Tip #5 Brace doorframes and put multiple locks on all outside doors
What he doesn't know *will* hurt him. With a little extra work, the bracing can be hidden behind the doorframe's internal molding and will not be noticeable from either inside or outside. For the burglar, this is like unexpectedly hitting an invisible wall.
Reason: The most common means of breaking into homes is simply by kicking in the door. Most doorframes are made of 1 inch pine which saves the contractor money. This makes them vulnerable to this basic assault. Multiple locks and bracing under the molding make this kind of entrance unlikely and will not destroy the beauty of your home.
Bracing: Take between a 2 and 3 foot piece of flat steel stripping (1/8 x 2 inches is good) and drill a staggered series of holes down its length. When you take the interior molding off the door -- in most houses -- you will see the 1x6" (or 1x5") pine plank of the doorframe. That is nailed to the 2x4" studs of the wall. (You may or may not be able to see the studs because of drywall, but they are there). That thin 1 inch piece of cheap wood (it is usually pine) is all that was between your possessions and a burglar. A few savage kicks, and it usually breaks off in a 2- to -3 foot sliver and the door swings open.
Fast and more secure version: On the inside wall, where the molding was, position the steel strip so that all the lock strike plates are behind it and its edge is along the edge of the 1x6. Screw it into place with long screws -- leaving a few holes open. The staggered drill pattern should result in the screws seating into both the 1x6 and the 2x4 studs. Take the molding and shave or chisel out the thickness of the metal strip in the proper place. Replace the molding, using the remaining holes to tack it down over the strip. Putty and repaint.
Slower, better looking, but slightly less secure: This version looks slightly better, but requires some precision Dremel or chisel work. Instead of abutting the strip to the exact edge of the 1x6, seat it between 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch away from the edge. When carving your groove in the molding, leave the same sized tongue running down the doorside edge. This seats over and covers the steel, making it invisible. Repaint.
Strike plate: Just assume that they did it wrong -- and odds are you will be right. Using the same length of screws that you are using for the steel strip, remove the shorter screws that are in the door frame strike plate and replace them with the bigger screws. It is not uncommon for short screws of less than a half inch to be used (or come with the lock assembly), such short screws are easily ripped out after a few kicks. On the other hand an 1 1/2 or 2 inch set of screws that reach into the house's very framing is not going anywhere quickly -- no matter how hard you kick it.
Multiple locks: Deadbolts, rim locks and floor locks are your friends. All outside doors should have at least two separate locks. Doors that are on the blind side of the house or homes in high-risk areas should have more. The deeper the tongue goes, the better.
Tip #6 Find alternatives to normal deadbolts in doors that have windows (or windowed frames)
Talk with a locksmith about what is available.
Reason: Most burglaries occur during the day when you are away at work. Unfortunately, many back doors are decorative and windowed. It is easy for a burglar to punch out a small window, reach in and unlock the door. Since they are off the street and out of view this is why most break-ins occur through the back and side doors.
A single-key deadbolt has a key on one side and a handle on the other. After punching out a window a burglar can reach in and, with ease, open the deadbolt then the doorknob - elapsed time five seconds. Placing a secondary lock (i.e., a floor lock) outside of the reach of the windows is recommended. If that is too much, a double-key deadbolt is recommended for non-primary access doors. This secures the door while you are not at home. If fire safety concerns you (and it should) at night put your keys in the deadbolt. This not only allows you immediate exit should a fire occur, but you will also always know where your keys are.
Tip #7 Treat inside garage doors the same as an outside door: multiple locks and bracing.
Even though it is inside your home, it must be able to withstand a full out assault. Often, the doors that access the house from the garage are hollow-core and have cheap locks (if they are locked at all) which is why break ins through garages are so common.
Reason: Criminals often cruise neighborhoods looking for open garage doors. Once an open garage door is found, they pull in, close the door, park their car and then start piling your possessions into it. Although they might still do it occasionally, criminals no longer need to cruise the neighborhood with a stolen garage door opener and pushing the button to see whose door will open, and incredible number of people just leave the door wide open for them when "just running down to the store."
For criminals on foot, the side door of a garage is a prime target, as it is often easier and offering better ease of access/escape than a back door. This is why you must treat the door into your home from the garage like an outside door.
If the inner door is locked it is usually hollow core and with minimal locks. Realize that with the garage door closed the criminals can unleash a sustained full out assault against that inside door. Usually the door will give way. By bracing it and replacing hollow core doors with solid core ones, you significantly lessen the chances of that happening.
It should also be noted that many home invasion robberies come through open garage doors and these inner doors. More so than the front door.
Tip #8 Plant rosebushes or cactus in front of all vulnerable windows.
Thorny landscaping not only adds beauty to your home, but makes even getting close to such windows an unappealing prospect
Reason: The second most common way of breaking into homes is through rear or side windows. A thief can work on such windows with little chance of detection. Standing in the middle of a thorn bush to do it, however, is not a pleasant experience.
Tip #9 Look into safety-coating the most vulnerable windows.
Safety coat is an adhesive plastic sheeting that makes breaking out windows difficult.
Reason: It's not going to be fun for him, standing in a rosebush only to discover that the window isn't easy to break either. Instead of a quick pop, he now has to stand there and repeatedly pound before he can even reach the lock. Wait until he discovers that the window has window stops as well.
If you can afford it, there are many quality windows that are not only good to keep inclement weather out, but provide serious burglar protection, as well.
Tip #10 Put a secondary lock that prevents the panel from being moved on all windows.
This is repeating what was mentioned earlier, but it is important enough to warrant such emphasis.
Reason: Put stops on the frame on all sash windows. This allows them to be opened, but only so far. On sliding windows and doors, the best type of lock is a pin that goes through both frame and sliding part. This prevents the window from being lifted out.
Tip #11 Get and close heavy drapes -- especially on rooms where there is expensive equipment.
Thin, sheer drapes --although attractive -- also allow burglars to look inside.
Reason: It is often amazing how often a home intruder will walk up and look through the windows of a home to see if there is anything worth stealing. Sheer curtains allow him to do this. He knows what he wants to steal before he even breaks in.
Getting into the habit of closing heavy drapes not only keep your home warmer in winter but lessen the chances of your home being targeted by a burglar. Without this ability to see into the home, there are less guaranteed results for him, which helps to serve as a deterrent.
Tip #12 In really bad neighborhoods, get safety bars on the windows.
In so-so neighborhoods, you might want to consider putting them on side windows -- especially ones that are perfect break-in spots.
Reason: When it comes down it windows are always breakable. A set of regular bars on high risk, non-bedroom windows are not likely to destroy the looks or value of your home. And the added security is well worth it.
On bedroom windows, it is advisable to spend the extra money and get the releasable bars that can be jettisoned in case of fire.
Tip #13 Make sure sliding glass doors and windows are installed correctly.
Not everyone in the construction industry is a rocket scientist. And their incompetence and laziness can cost you plenty.
Reason: An estimated one quarter of all sliding glass doors and windows are installed backwards (so the sliding part is on the outside track). This allows the criminal to simply lift out the panel and enter
Tip #14 If you use a pole in the track to secure sliding doors and windows make sure it is the right length.
It should be within a ? - inch of the track’s length.
Reason: If the pole is not long enough to keep the criminal from slipping his fingers in, it is of no use. Staple or tape a piece of string to the pole to make it easy to pull out when it is in the track.
Better yet get a "track stop" or "track lock" that you can put in the tracks. They are far better than the "poor man's version" of a dowel. Better yet get sliding window/door bar (jamb bar).
Tip #15 Install motion detectors in areas where no one should be.
This way, you know something isn't right when they go off.
Reason: Most people put safety lights where they do the least good. While they illuminate your approach as you pull into your driveway, such lights are often hard to see if you are indoors. Put them along the side of the house or back, so that someone lurking there sets them off.
Position them so you can see when they go on. The lights are adjustable, so even if you have a blind wall you can turn the lights so they will both illuminate an area and attract your attention. Put them high enough so that they cannot be knocked out of service by someone jumping.
Look into low voltage and/or solar powered outdoor lighting. This kind of lighting illuminates your property at very little cost.
Tip #16 Get a dog.
A barking dog, whether inside the house or in the yard is proven as the best deterrent to burglars.
Reason: It doesn't have to be a 250 - pound Rottweiler named Spike, even a smaller yappy dog serves as an early warning system. Not only does the intruder risk a bite, but the barking attracts attention. And there is no such thing as a stranger intimidating a dog into silence.
We don't recommend dog doors. It is not uncommon for thieves to bring small children and send them through these and have the child open the main door. Also, since many burglars are, in fact, teenagers, it is also common for them to bring a younger child with them to do this. If you do have a dog door already, either a) put the dog out and lock the door during the day or b) make sure the access gates to your yard are locked. That way the criminals cannot simply walk by, open your gate to let the dog out and then return when the dog has wandered away.
The truth is a dog, even a small dog, inside a house is not something a burglar wants to to deal with. Getting bit is not fun.
Tip #17 Create a neighborhood watch on your block.
Even just the signs often send would-be burglars elsewhere.
Reason: An alert and involved community is the criminal’s nemesis. It is often reason enough for him to try business elsewhere.
Even if you can't create an organized program, get to know your neighbors, especially retired folks who are home all day. Let them know who belongs there and who doesn't. Have them watch your property and pick up your newspaper when you are on vacation. It is also a good idea to hire a trustworthy preteen/young teen neighbor to do such mundane jobs as mowing your lawn or taking out the trash. Such kids then have vested interests in your property and they are home to watch your property when adults aren't. The kids like it because they get spending money and you get to watch TV on the weekend instead of doing lawn work.
Tip #18 Make sure the gates are locked if you have a fence.
This is especially important with accesses to the alley.
Reason: Each layer serves as a deterrent. The more layers and hard work the criminal has to do, the more likely he is to pass by your home. A locked fence is something he must climb over while carrying objects. If the gate is left unlocked, however, he can just walk right through it.
Tip #19 Leave the stereo/TV on
An empty house "feels" empty. There is no vibration or noise inside that indicates someone's presence. Put the "vibes" in.
Reason: Although this is not a guaranteed deterrent, it can serve as a "bluff" to young, inexperienced prowlers. Even though they have "checked" to see if anyone is home (e.g. knock on the door), the unexpected noise, especially from the back or upstairs (any place they can't look into), indicates that they made a mistake on their primary recon. Maybe someone is home and just didn't hear the doorbell.
You might especially want to consider this strategy for vacations. Close the drapes, turn the stereo/TV on in the room where the criminal is most likely to try to break in.
Tip #20 Etch your name on all electronic equipment TV/stereo/computer and then tape it
Etching, in and of itself serves as a deterrent in case of a break in, failing that it greatly assists the police in the recovery of your property
Reason : Items with your name and address cannot be easily sold. The reason for this is that anyone buying them is buying something that can easily be proven to be stolen property and they know it. What protects most buyers of stolen goods is the fact that it is difficult to prove something is stolen property. However, a name and address on an item combined with a police report is a fast way to end up in the county jail for possession of stolen property -- even if the person who has it bought it off the burglar. As such, why steal something that you a) can't sell, b) if you are caught with you're definitely going to jail for?
Although it is better to record serial numbers, a faster way to assist the police in recovery is to video tape every room and all the items in them. As you tape say what it is (for example Sanyo TV, Hitachi DVD player, etc.,) Title the tape something like "Family Reunion" or something you will remember and put it in your video collection. This way, if items are stolen you can give the tape to the police, video and the etching will identify your property when the police encounter it. Which quite often they do, being called to homes where stolen property is present, but without a means to identify it as such, they cannot prove it. Also send a duplicate copy to a relative.
Tip #21 Get a safe!
It's not just cash and jewels that need to go in there, but your important paperwork.
Reason: Identity theft is the fastest growing crime in the US. Although many people think burglars are going to go for jewelry, silverware or electronics, what most people don't realize is that the greatest damage to you will be if the criminal gets access to your personal identification and financial records!!! A criminal can clone your identity and steal everything you have, up to an including selling your property. Passports can sell for as much as a thousand dollars. And a passport and your checkbook...kiss all that money good-bye.
Make sure the safe is bolted through the floor and cannot be carried out. If you are in a situation where you cannot use such measures (such as an apartment) then invest in a large, heavy duty filing cabinet with locks. Do NOT leave the keys nearby.
Tip #22 On top of everything else, get an alarm system.
This is another layer of the onion. You can go anywhere from a basic system to incredibly high tech.
Reason: Now that you've made it slow and difficult for him to get inside, an alarm is far more effective since it gives the cavalry a chance to arrive in time. In addition, burglar, carbon monoxide and fire alarms do wonders to keep your home owner's insurance down.
Know however, that the bread and butter of most security companies is the service they sell you in support of the alarm system (calling the police, paging you if there is a problem or even sending their own guards). While shopping around is important, do your homework on security systems, providers and services first. And remember, you are investing for the long term. That is how you must think when investing in an alarm system.
Five Stages of a Violent Crime
Crime and violence are processes that take time to develop. The attack is not the first step, the preliminary triangle must be built. There are five distinct stages that are easily identified:
1) Intent
2) Interview
3) Positioning
4) Attack
5) Reaction
During the first three stages, you can prevent an attack without the use of violence. These are where the criminal (or violent person) decides whether or not he can get away with it. He may want to (Intent), but if he doesn't have the opportunity (Positioning) he cannot succeed. The Interview is his way to double check if you are safe for him to attack. If these conditions are not met, he will not attack!
What we are about to say is not hyperbole. Selecting a safe victim is a matter of life or death for the criminal. If he picks the wrong target, he's the one who is going to die. Therefore, he's going to make sure he can successfully use violence against you (Interview & Positioning) before he commits himself to act. Once he is sure of his ability to succeed -- and has put you in a position where he can quickly overwhelm you -- he will attack.
Below is a shorthand version of the five stages.
Intent
This is where the person crosses a normal mental boundary. From this point, the person is mentally and physically prepared to commit violence in order to get what he wants – whatever that may be. Being able to recognize when intent is present is one of the key components of your personal safety. yet, this isn't always easy as you might think. The criminal has often learned how to mask it behind words and feigned innocence. But once you know how to spot the physiological signs, it is easily recognizable. Learn more about intent.
Interview
With all violence, the assailant's safety is a critical factor in deciding whether or not to attack. While in interpersonal violence, the deciding factor may be anger, strong emotion or pride. However, with criminal violence it is more of a conscious decision. This leads us to the interview, where the criminal decides upon your suitability as a victim. There are several kinds of interviews common to criminal attacks
Positioning
This is the criminal putting himself in a place where he can successfully attack you. A criminal (or even a violent person) doesn't want to fight you; he wants to overwhelm you. To do this, he has to put himself in a position where he can do it quickly and effectively. An attempt to develop positioning is the final proof of ill intent. Someone trying to position himself to attack removes all doubt that the situation is innocent. Like the Interview, there are several kinds of Positioning.
Attack
The attack is the when the criminal/violent person commits himself to using force -- or the threat of force -- to get what he wants. Like the other stages there are important distinctions to be made about the kind of attack you will face.
Reaction
Reaction is how the criminal feels about what he has done. However, this is made more complicated by the fact that your reaction is an important contributing factor.
Tips on How to Avoid Being Robbed
Robbery, by definition, is to take something from an individual by direct use of, or threat of, violence. It is "give it up or else." This is different from theft, which is committed through stealth (i.e. a pickpocket) or when you are not present (i.e. burglary).
It cannot be stressed enough that with robbery the criminal has come prepared to commit violence. There is no "warm up time" for the criminal. When he walks up to you he has already escalated it to the point where using physical violence makes sense to him
This makes such encounter extremely dangerous from the get go. The victim seldom has a chance to "shift gears" fast enough to effectively defend himself/herself. This is why it is critical for a would-be victim to recognize the developing danger signs of such an attack. And, having done so, take evasive maneuvers BEFORE the attack occurs. A common tactic is for the robber to just walk up and shoot a victim without warning. As the person is laying on the ground screaming in pain, the criminal takes what he wants.
This is why knowledge , awareness and avoidance are your best bets for staying safe from robberies. With these you can prevent yourself from being put into a position where you can be robbed. There is good news, however, the deterrents that successfully prevent a mugging also work against rapes by a stranger.
Tip #1 For a week, pretend to be a mugger.
Pretend that you are the bad guy and are going to ambush someone. Where would you stand in order to observe people entering and leaving in areas you regularly go? Where could you stand so they approach you or you could approach them without you being seen?
Reason: Criminals seldom actually hide. It takes too long to emerge from a real hiding space. They most often position themselves in locations where they are not immediately seen. For example, many parking structures have areas where people exiting the elevators don’t look. People stepping off the elevator usually look towards their cars, not into a cubbyhole near the elevator. By standing there, criminals can watch a parade of potential victims. These areas are located where they can easily intercept a person or approach from behind. By playing this game, you acquaint yourself with such spots in areas where you regularly go. By being aware of these spots, you also tend to unconsciously check them. If you see someone loitering in such a location, it is a a serious danger sign
Tip #2 When entering a "fringe area" glance around to see if anyone is about
This especially means looking behind you. By simply glancing around in certain areas you can reduce your chances of being raped or robbed by 90 percent! It takes no more than two seconds when stepping out of an elevator into a parking structure, walking into a parking lot, when approaching an ATM or stepping onto a train platform to assess if there is potential trouble present.
Reason: It lets you see trouble BEFORE it can position itself. If you don’t see anyone, return to your thoughts or the task at hand. You have guaranteed your safety -- with no more than a three-second investment. If someone is present, see if they are engaged in normal activities for that area. In a parking lot, a family walking to their car is engaged in normal activity for that area. In that case, return to what you were doing. However, a shady looking individual loitering against the wall is not acting normally for someone in a parking lot. This is a potentially dangerous situation, but unless he begins to move towards you, you are probably safe. If it is a group of loiterers, steer well clear of them or return to where you came from and request an escort.
If an individual or group of such characters begins to move towards you, leave the area. One of the most common forms of robbery, carjacking and kidnap for rape involves the criminal(s) loitering near the mall entrance and following the victim to her car. By just looking behind you as you enter a parking area, you can prevent this by knowing to circle back to the entrance.
Simply stated, this glance allows you to see what is occurring. Very seldom will the criminal be in perfect position to attack you when you enter an area. He must move into better position to attack you. By glancing around you will see him while he is still in this pre-position and take evasive measures before he gets into attack position. If the criminal can successfully position himself he will attack.
Tip #3 Do NOT walk through (or pass close to) a pack of loitering 'toughs'
Nearly half of all personal robberies are 'strongarm' robberies. That means a group of teenagers surrounds you and demands money or they will physically assault you.
Reason: You are literally walking into the lion's jaws. The pack mentality is a baby version of the mob mentality, and that is not good. Numbers give the pack members both safety and anonymity. This makes them far more aggressive than normal. They can attack you with little risk to themselves. While this does not sound as bad as being threatened with a weapon, ten people "stomping" you can and will put you into the hospital for months.
Many strongarm robberies are NOT planned. Unfortunately, they are a result of a golden opportunity falling into the pack's collective lap. This is because someone entering an area where the group is decides not to be intimidated (or decides that they will leave him/her alone) and walks right into the pack's midst.
Unless you are able to casually gouge out another person's eye or pull the trigger with calm disregard to the pain and suffering you are causing, you will NOT be able to bluff a pack. So don't even try to intimidate them or convince them that they would be making a big mistake by "messing" with you. They have the numbers on their side and that means they have more force than you do alone. And if they call your bluff, you will be in some deep trouble.
Tip # 4 Trust your inner alarms, even if there is no apparent reason.
If you don’t like the ‘vibes’ someone is giving off, don’t let that person approach you. Withdraw from the area and return to "the lights and the noise."
Reason: Trust your instincts, your unconscious mind has recognized something amiss. If your alarms go off, something set them off, even if you don’t consciously recognize what it is! If something isn’t right, don’t wait to find out exactly what is wrong -- by then it will be to late. Your subconscious is picking up "nonverbal leakage". That is when someone's body language tells you what is really going on in spite of his words. This part of you recognizes intent.
If you want more proof, watch for him trying to develop the rest of AOI.
Tip #5 Insist on a buffer of at least five feet against people who set off your internal alarms.
In wide open areas fringe areas, make it fifteen. You have the right to tell someone "that's close enough" and it is NOT rude.
Reason: No stranger has a legitimate reason to approach you closer than five feet. Part of the interview process is to see if you will allow him to develop positioning. Often the criminal’s approach is hidden behind the guise of asking for something (regular interview). Even if you have the item, LIE! You’re out of cigarettes, you don’t have jumper cables, you don’t know where Park street is, etc. This removes his ‘excuse’ to approach. Insist that the person stay away. If he continues to approach, he has announced his intention, and it is not good.
A common ploy at this stage is to challenge you with the question "why you being so rude?" Do NOT fall for this tactic! It is the criminal testing to see if he can intimidate and confuse you! Usually this is said while the criminal is still advancing. As such he is still closing the distance so he can successfully attack you!
The response of "I'm not being rude, but you have no business coming closer" informs him that you are aware what he is trying to accomplish.
Tip #6 Never be too proud to retreat or to walk wide of someone.
If you don’t like a situation, it is better to err on the side of caution.
Reason: Most people are victimized not because the criminal is competent, but because they stay in an area where violence could be used against them. Literally, fools rush in where angels fear to tread. Don’t think you will intimidate a lion by sticking your head in its jaws. Nor should you worry about showing the criminal that you are afraid. If the criminal can get close to you in a fringe area, he will be able to successfully use violence.
Another reason people fail to remove themselves from danger is almost exclusive to women, and that is they don't want to hurt the criminal's feelings. They don't wish to insult him by indicating that they don't trust him. This is just one of the many downsides of Politically Correct thinking. People who subscribe to this kind of thinking do not wish to offer insult or imply to the criminal that they do not trust him because of racial issues.
There is a difference between being racist and being foolish. That's because there is an even bigger difference between being a violent and dangerous person and being of a certain ethnic origin. Violent and dangerous people come in all colors, races and creeds. Being born into an ethnic group doesn't automatically mean a person is violent. Nor however does it automatically mean that the person isn't violent.
Learn the difference. Once you know the signs of violent, angry people they are easy to spot no matter what race they are.
It makes perfect sense to walk wide of a potentially violent person...and to hell with his feelings. He doesn't care about your feelings as he is robbing you, raping you or assaulting you. And yes, this does require work on your part. It means you must learn the bodylanguage, clothing and behaviors common to violent people. If you don't then you are going to either be paranoid about everybody who is different than you or suicidally foolish about walking into the lions jaws.
Tip #7 Watch to see who is watching you.
An integral part of a robbery is the "interview" it is during this time that the criminal selects someone and then decides if he can successfully rob that person.
Reason: Even if you are the most drop-dead gorgeous person on the planet, there are cultural rules as to how long one can acceptably look at you. Too much attention is a danger sign. While many women regularly deal with unwanted attention by looking away and pretending not to notice, this behavior can also set you up for a crime. By turning away from someone, you can also fail to see if he starts approaching you. If someone is paying too much attention, walk wide, but check out of the side of your eye to be sure that he has not decided to follow you.
Tip #8 Go out of your way to avoid people getting out of cars in parking lots and on the street.
Be careful of cars pulling up next to you and people getting out.
Reason: Many criminals drive to crime scenes, especially carjackings. One drives, the passenger pops out and robs you. Where is it normal to let someone out in a parking lot? Near the door. Seldom do people get out in the middle of a parking lot. While it is possible that the person being let out is going to his car, what are the chances that it is exactly where you are at the moment? When you see a car door open, cut across a lane. If he follows, he is obviously up to no good.
Tip # 9 Don't run from danger, run to safety
Firmly entrench the difference in your mind.
Reason: Many people faunch and worry that showing fear will provoke an attack. On the other hand, many make a far worse mistake by insisting on a "no fear" approach. And in doing so, such people refuse to retreat from a dangerous situation. This is a pendulum swing to the other extreme based on piss poor communication by many so-called "experts" on the subject of self-defense who insist on telling people to walk with confidence as though you are heading somewhere.
Having spent a lifetime dealing with violent criminals I can, as a trained professional, firmly state: Violent criminals are dangerous.
Even with years of training and experience these people pose a threat to me. A threat that if I am not always on the ball when confronting them will result in me being injured or killed. And even if I am on top of it, I run the risk of getting hurt. With that in mind, what kind of threat do they pose to you? The answer is: A far greater one.
This is why you need to understand the difference between running and a strategic withdrawal
If you are blindly running from danger, you WILL provoke chase. And unfortunately, the odds are that your pursuers will catch you. That is because you are just running with no specific goal in mind. The path you take will reflect that. When you run like this, there is no reason for your pursuers NOT to chase you. In fact, there is a good chance in your blind panic that you will run into a better, more isolated area - which will increase your chances of being assaulted and/or raped.
If on the other hand, you look at it as a strategic withdrawal to a better position you are less likely to make such a mistake. The best example of 'running towards safety' is to head to the police station. Run fiercely to the security guard station. With every step you take, the risk to your pursuers increases. Now, chasing you endangers them. Which brings us to the next point.
Tip #10 Head for the lights and the noise. If someone tries to follow you, get close or is loitering in an ambush area get to an area where there are people.
Reason: Where you have lights and noise, you have people. Where you have people, you have witnesses and often people who’s job it is to arrest criminals. In a similar vein, if you have a job where you drive home at night, know where the police stations and all-night convenience stores are located. If followed, drive straight to them. Do NOT go home. On foot, go back to an area with people, report the incident and ask for an escort.
Do NOT head for areas of perceived safety that are in facts, traps. These are things that will in fact slow you down, like elevators, stairwells, your car or the door of your home. In parking structures, head for the ramp. In parking lots head back to where you came. In an apartment building the stairs are better than the elevator and anything is better than your door. People are your best source of safety, not things.
Tip #11 Do NOT allow yourself to be surrounded
There is no danger signal more obvious than being surrounded or criminals "splitting up" as they approach you. If you see this developing LEAVE!
Reason: Once you are surrounded you are trapped. There is very little you can do to prevent from being assaulted and even if you are a martial arts grandmaster, the odds are that you will be overwhelmed and beaten.
Fortunately, once you know the significance of this behavior it is both easy to spot and easy to avoid. It also sends a serious message to the would be robbers that you are aware of what they need in order to successfully rob you and you are not letting them have it. In that message is also the news that there are easier people to rob. People who will not pose as much of a threat as you do if they insist on cornering you.
Tip #12 If despite all of this, a criminal still gets the drop on you don’t stand there and argue.
Although this sounds asinine, you would be amazed at how common it is. Simply stated, since most people don't recognize the developing danger, it does literally "jump out of the bushes" to them. Sometimes they stand there in total shock and disbelief (which works well for the mugger, and in fact, usually saves their lives). However, other times the victim's don't accurately assess the threat, nor do they have time to shift out of their normal mindset. And that means they try to stand there and argue as though this were just a rude busboy in a restaurant. There is no better way to get shot.
Reason: If you go berserk and physically attack, you might survive, but at a cost. If you run you might survive. If your reaction is to verbally assault him though, he will shoot you. You may have an attitude, but he has one too...and a gun. And when looking down the barrel of one, it is no time to argue.
Tip #13 NEVER allow yourself to be taken to a secondary location
Most muggers only want your money or valuables, if you give them to him without resistance you will often be fine. However, if a mugger tries to force you into a car or take you to another location, all bets are off.
Reason: Secondary locations are death traps. If you are a woman and you allow yourself to be taken elsewhere the *absolute best* you can hope for is that you will only be raped. Which should tell you how bad it is if being raped is the best that will happen. While there is something like a 3% chance that you won't be raped, assaulted and/or murdered, this is kidnap. And in the eyes of the law, the only crime worse than kidnap is premeditated murder. The law savagely prosecutes kidnappers anyway so there is no reason for the criminal NOT to rape and kill you.
Conclusion
Until you are looking down the barrel of a gun, many other things seem far more important. But when you find yourself staring into the gaping chasm that is a gun's muzzle, you suddenly realize exactly what is, and what is not, important. All of those thoughts, feelings, emotions and confidence that lead you into the trap, suddenly seem very small in comparison to just staying alive.
This is why you must re prioritize many of the issues that will lead you into dangerous situations.
It is a sad truth that most people who are robbed, didn't have to be. A significant majority of personal robberies could have been easily avoided -- had the person taken these simple, non-violent steps. But if the person - for whatever reasons- decides to ignore these basic crime avoidance tips, then he or she is going to walk right into the lion's jaws.
How to Avoid Car Theft & Break-Ins
Step2-Keep the windows rolled up and the car locked, even if it's parked at your own house.
Step3-Keep valuables in your car hidden. Consider buying a removable stereo face to keep in your trunk or carry with you.
Step4-Consider buying a visible mechanical locking device to lock the steering wheel, and/or an auto theft alarm system.
Step5-Install locking lug nuts to prevent your custom wheels or externally mounted spare tire from being stolen.
Step6-Keep in mind when purchasing a new car that some makes and models have a higher incidence of theft than others.
Step7-Keep your car registration and insurance card with you instead of in the glove compartment so that thieves cannot produce these documents if stopped by police.
Step8-Disconnect either the battery or the coil wire from the distributor cap if you have to leave your car unattended for an extended period of time. Car thieves will often not have the time or the desire to diagnose why the car won't start.
Step9-Take your ignition keys to a locksmith or car dealer to remove the key number, which thieves can use to have the keys duplicated (jot down the number for your records first).
Step10-Etch the vehicle identification number (VIN) onto the doors and fenders of your car with an electric engraver for extra protection. This helps to discourage professional car thieves, who will have to remove the markings to resell the car.